How to Set Up a Chameleon Cage – Enclosure Setup Guide

If you’re looking for a guide to set up your chameleon cage or enclosure, this page is for you.

In this article you’ll learn…

How to pick your chameleon’s cage
How to set the right temperature
How to control humidity levels
How to set up proper lighting
What safe plants to put in the enclosure

Let’s begin with the difference between cage, enclosure, and terranium…

Cage vs Enclosure vs Terranium

The terms “enclosure”, “cage”, and “terrarium” are often used interchangeably in the reptile-keeping world, but they do have some distinctions, especially when discussing habitats for chameleons.

Enclosure is a general term that refers to any space or container used to house an animal. It doesn’t specify the type, materials, or design of the space.
Cage usually refers to an enclosure made primarily of screen or mesh, allowing for maximum ventilation. In the context of chameleons, a cage often means a mesh or screen cage, designed specifically to meet the requirements of arboreal chameleons that need high airflow and some humidity control.
Terrarium is a type of enclosure typically made of glass or clear acrylic on most sides, with at least one mesh or screen section for ventilation. Its design emphasizes humidity retention and a clear view of its inhabitants. Terrariums are often used for reptiles, amphibians, or plants that require a more humid environment. (i.e. the Pygmy Chameleon needs higher humidity and less airflow than other chameleon species).

Choosing the Right Enclosure

Size Matters

When choosing your chameleon’s enclosure, size matters.

A cramped enclosure can stress your chameleon, leading to health issues. Make sure your chameleon has enough space to climb, explore, and bask.

Cage or Terrarium?

The choice here primarily hinges on two factors: ventilation and humidity.

Cage: Mostly made of mesh, cages offer superior ventilation where air circulates freely. Excess humidity can escape, which prevents the environment from becoming overly damp. This airflow is beneficial for species like Veiled or Panther chameleons that don’t thrive in consistenty high humidity, as too much moisture can lead to respiratory issues.
Terrarium: Made of glass or clear acrylic with a section for ventilation, terrariums excel at retaining humidity. This environment suits species like the pygmy chameleon, which prefers a consistently humid environment. Terrariums also give you a clear view of the vibrant world you create inside, showcasing your chameleon and its surroundings.

Consider Your Local Climate

Your local climate can influence your choice of cage vs terranium. If you live in a drier city, a terrarium’s humidity retention may be beneficial. If you live in a humid city, a cage is ideal to prevent excessive moisture buildup.

Maintenance and Access

While terrariums can be more challenging to clean due to potential mold growth, they often offer a closer connection with your pet. Cages, with their open structure, simplify the cleaning process but may require more effort to maintain the desired humidity levels.

Aesthetic and Interaction

For enthusiasts aiming to create a miniature ecosystem, terrariums provide a canvas to craft a detailed habitat. In contrast, cages might be less about visuals and more about health-centric functionality.

Chameleon Enclosure Sizes Depending on Species

The size of the enclosure depends on the species and age of the chameleon.

1. Small Chameleons
  - Examples of Species: Jackson’s chameleon (especially the smaller subspecies), pygmy chameleons.
  - Recommended Enclosure Size: At least 16″ x 16″ x 30″ (W x D x H).
  - Type: Screen or mesh cages for good ventilation.
2. Medium Chameleons
  - Examples of Species: Many of the dwarf or lesser chameleons, like the carpet chameleon.
  - Recommended Enclosure Size: At least 18″ x 18″ x 36″.
  - Type: Screen or mesh cages to ensure proper ventilation.
3. Large Chameleons
  - Examples of Species: Veiled chameleons, panther chameleons, and some larger Jackson’s chameleon subspecies.
  - Recommended Enclosure Size: At least 24″ x 24″ x 48″ for adults, but bigger is always better.
  - Type: Screen or mesh cages.
4. Pygmy Chameleons (They’re a bit special)
  - These are not true arboreal chameleons. They prefer lower vegetation and are terrestrial to semi-arboreal.
  - Recommended EnclosureSize: For a small group, a 12″ x 12″ x 18″ terrarium can work, but 18″ x 18″ x 24″ is better.
  - Type: Glass terrariums with good ventilation on top. They need higher humidity and less airflow than the larger, more arboreal species.

Location

Place the cage in a quiet location, away from high traffic areas.

Don’t put the cage near vents, heaters, or windows that might cause drastic temperature fluctuations.

Lighting

Chameleons require UVB light to synthesize vitamin D3, which helps them metabolize calcium. Without UVB light, they can develop metabolic bone disease.
Set up a UVB light and a basking light. The basking light provides a spot where the chameleon can warm itself.
Make sure the lights are on a timer or follow a routine to replicate the day-night cycle (about 12 hours on and 12 hours off).

Chameleon Cage Temperature Regulation

Understand & Set Proper Temperatures

Chameleons are ectothermic, relying on external temperatures to regulate their body heat.
Set up a temperature gradient in their cage. This means providing a warm basking spot (typically between 80°F-95°F or 27°C-35°C) and cooler ambient areas (generally 70°F-80°F or 21°C-27°C during the day).
Nighttime temperatures should drop slightly, replicating their natural environment.

Monitoring & Safety

Regularly check temperatures using reliable digital thermometers.
Ensure heating elements, like basking bulbs or ceramic emitters, are placed safely, preventing direct contact with the chameleon.
Avoid heat rocks due to burn risks.
Adjust heating elements based on seasonal changes and always research specific requirements for your chameleon’s species.

Here’s a more detailed article on chameleon temperature regulation

Humidity

Chameleons require high humidity. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels. Most species require around 50-70% humidity in the day time, 70%-100% humidity in the night time.

A notable exception is the pygmy chameleon. They require a constant Humidity of 70% – 100% because they live in the leaf litter of the rainforest floor, and they prefer consistently higher humidity.

Tips to Maintain Proper Humidity Levels

Misting: Manually spray water inside the enclosure 2-3 times a day. Misting not only helps increase humidity but also provides drinking opportunities for the chameleon, as they prefer to drink water droplets from leaves rather than from a dish.
Drip System: These can be purchased or DIYed and provide a steady drip of water, increasing humidity and offering another drinking source for your chameleon.
Humidifiers & Foggers: These devices can help maintain high humidity levels, especially in drier climates or during winter. They can be set on timers or hygrostats to maintain desired humidity levels.
Live Plants: Adding live plants to the enclosure can help increase and maintain humidity. Plants like pothos, ficus, and ferns are commonly used in chameleon setups.
Water Bowls: While chameleons don’t typically drink from standing water, a shallow water dish can help increase humidity in the enclosure. Ensure it’s shallow to prevent drowning risks.
Hygrometer: This is a device that measures humidity. It’s essential to have a reliable digital hygrometer in the cage to monitor humidity levels.
Limit Ventilation: While chameleons need good ventilation, in drier climates, too much can reduce humidity quickly. Partially covering the screen or using a glass terrarium (with ventilation) can help retain moisture.
Substrate: While many chameleon enclosures don’t use substrate (for ease of cleaning and to prevent impaction if ingested), if used, substrates like coco coir or moss can help retain humidity.

Substrate

The bottom of the cage doesn’t need a substrate, but if you decide to use one, newspaper or paper towels work best. Avoid using substrates like wood chips or bark, which could be ingested and cause impaction.

Plants & Decor

Chameleons are arboreal, meaning they spend most of their time in trees. Add vertical branches, vines, and live or artificial plants for climbing.
Make sure the plants are non-toxic to chameleons.
Plants also help maintain humidity. Popular plants include pothos, ficus, hibiscus, and ferns.
More: Safe plants for chameleons to eat, climb, and hide in

Water

Chameleons usually don’t drink from standing water. Instead, they drink droplets from leaves.
You can set up a dripping system or mist the cage regularly to provide drinking opportunities.
Some keepers provide a shallow dish of water just in case, but ensure the dish is shallow to prevent drowning.

Safety

Make sure there are no small openings where the chameleon can escape.
Ensure any lights or heaters are securely placed so they cannot fall into the cage.

Cleaning

Remove fecal matter and uneaten food daily.
Clean the cage thoroughly every few weeks using reptile-safe disinfectants.

Diet

Chameleons primarily eat insects like crickets, roaches, and worms. Some larger species might eat small vertebrates.
Make sure to gut-load insects with nutritious food before feeding them to the chameleon.
Dust insects with calcium and vitamin D3 supplements regularly.

Learn more about chameleon diet